We started construction on the barn over the past few weeks. Here's what we've been able to accomplish so far...
1. Cleared the land where the barn is being built.
2. Dug out for the foundation.
3. Installed a perimeter drainage system.
4. Hired a contractor to put in the footing and foundation.
5. Filled in the foundation with stone and back-filled the outside of the foundation.
6. Started framing the first floor.
Here are some pics of our progress...
http://s1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc367/shanjust/Barn%20construction/
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Easement Problems (post #1)
We bought two abuting lots. They are a very funny shape. They start out like two highways lanes, and then about 250' in, the shift to the right, like when you are on the highway and there is construction and they do that lane shift thing. On the edge of one lot, there is an easement for neighbors with a rear lot. Before we bought the land, we had met the neighbors who use the easement and we all got along pretty well. I wasn't thrilled with the idea of the easement, and saw potential problems.
Well, I was right and the problems have started. I'm not sure how anyone make this situation work. And I can understand why this land was on the market so long. I think everyone but us know to stay away from situations like this one. The problems that we have faced are:
1. Paying for improvements - We have made significant improvements to the end of the driveway at our sole expense. There was an issue at the end of the driveway where driveway wahsed away with all the winter weather/water run-off, and the existing culvert pipe was exposed with no dirt/gravel covering it. We could get in with the truck, but the neighbors could not get in. In fact, they could not even live there at the time because it was so bad. So we dug up the old pipe, bought and installed a new one and brought in gravel to cover the pipe. That was about a $500 project. Once that was complete, the neighbors could move back in. They said it looked great, but never offered any financial contribution. I guess they really don't have to since it technically is our land and our responsibility, but we thought the offer of some money would have been nice since it meant they could move back in and they use it everyday - we only use it on the weekends.
2. What rights do they have - There was a question about what rights the neighbors have within the easement. The deeds indicate it is a "driveway easement". From all the research I did, that means they have the right to drive in the easement from the town road to their property. NOTHING ELSE. They informed us that they wanted to install underground utilities in the easement. We weren't sure they had the right to do that. In fact, we were pretty sure they did not. When we asked our lawyer, his first reaction was no, they don't. Well, we ended up being wrong. Apparently, in this state, even a "driveway easement" has the right to install utilities. So we really couldnt' say no. But we pissed them off by questioning it.
3. Sharing utilities - Since the neighbors were now going to be digging up the easement to install utilities, we tried to see if there was any way we could share in some of the infrastructre and cost. This was their idea. We tried a few times to come up with a plan that worked, but were not able to come to one. We were left feeling as though they just wanted us to pay for half of their stuff, with no consideration for us and where we would need the lines to run.
4. Trash dumping - The final straw was the fact that there was a huge pile of brush in the "field" right where our temporary driveway was going to be. We asked the neighbors about it, thinking there was a chance that the previous owner had left it there a long time ago. They, however, indicated that they had dumped it there because it was debris they had removed from the easement after a bad ice storm. Apparently they thought it was okay to dump it on someone else's land. We implied that they needed to deal with it, but they did not. So on the day we had dump loads of material coming, we asked them to deal with it. Their attitude really set us off and there was a big blow out.
So, as you can see, we have already run into problems. I think the idea of an easement is stupid and I really hate this. Especially since the neighbors have their own frontage and could technically put in their own driveway.
Well, I was right and the problems have started. I'm not sure how anyone make this situation work. And I can understand why this land was on the market so long. I think everyone but us know to stay away from situations like this one. The problems that we have faced are:
1. Paying for improvements - We have made significant improvements to the end of the driveway at our sole expense. There was an issue at the end of the driveway where driveway wahsed away with all the winter weather/water run-off, and the existing culvert pipe was exposed with no dirt/gravel covering it. We could get in with the truck, but the neighbors could not get in. In fact, they could not even live there at the time because it was so bad. So we dug up the old pipe, bought and installed a new one and brought in gravel to cover the pipe. That was about a $500 project. Once that was complete, the neighbors could move back in. They said it looked great, but never offered any financial contribution. I guess they really don't have to since it technically is our land and our responsibility, but we thought the offer of some money would have been nice since it meant they could move back in and they use it everyday - we only use it on the weekends.
2. What rights do they have - There was a question about what rights the neighbors have within the easement. The deeds indicate it is a "driveway easement". From all the research I did, that means they have the right to drive in the easement from the town road to their property. NOTHING ELSE. They informed us that they wanted to install underground utilities in the easement. We weren't sure they had the right to do that. In fact, we were pretty sure they did not. When we asked our lawyer, his first reaction was no, they don't. Well, we ended up being wrong. Apparently, in this state, even a "driveway easement" has the right to install utilities. So we really couldnt' say no. But we pissed them off by questioning it.
3. Sharing utilities - Since the neighbors were now going to be digging up the easement to install utilities, we tried to see if there was any way we could share in some of the infrastructre and cost. This was their idea. We tried a few times to come up with a plan that worked, but were not able to come to one. We were left feeling as though they just wanted us to pay for half of their stuff, with no consideration for us and where we would need the lines to run.
4. Trash dumping - The final straw was the fact that there was a huge pile of brush in the "field" right where our temporary driveway was going to be. We asked the neighbors about it, thinking there was a chance that the previous owner had left it there a long time ago. They, however, indicated that they had dumped it there because it was debris they had removed from the easement after a bad ice storm. Apparently they thought it was okay to dump it on someone else's land. We implied that they needed to deal with it, but they did not. So on the day we had dump loads of material coming, we asked them to deal with it. Their attitude really set us off and there was a big blow out.
So, as you can see, we have already run into problems. I think the idea of an easement is stupid and I really hate this. Especially since the neighbors have their own frontage and could technically put in their own driveway.
The Rain Has Finally Stopped
With the plans approved, we can really get started anytime we're ready. We have to at least do something within 6 months of the permit being granted. What we really have been waiting for is the rain to stop.
There is an area that we have to cross to get from the driveway to the shed site. Eventually the driveway will extend over to the shed, but for right now it's just a "field". In reality, it's an area where the previous owner logged the land and stripped the land of all vegetation and dirt. It's basically pure ledge. If there is any dirt, it's only an inch or so thick. So, with all the spring rain we had, and because there is so much ledge, giving the water no where to go, it's just a mud bowl.
We'll have to bring in fill to build this area up if the permanent driveway runs through it. In fact, we had plans just last weekend to start to bring in materials to do just that. Our plan was to get a temporary driveway in so that we could get concrete trucks over to the shed site and get going on the foundation. But then, of course, we ran into a problem.
There is an area that we have to cross to get from the driveway to the shed site. Eventually the driveway will extend over to the shed, but for right now it's just a "field". In reality, it's an area where the previous owner logged the land and stripped the land of all vegetation and dirt. It's basically pure ledge. If there is any dirt, it's only an inch or so thick. So, with all the spring rain we had, and because there is so much ledge, giving the water no where to go, it's just a mud bowl.
We'll have to bring in fill to build this area up if the permanent driveway runs through it. In fact, we had plans just last weekend to start to bring in materials to do just that. Our plan was to get a temporary driveway in so that we could get concrete trucks over to the shed site and get going on the foundation. But then, of course, we ran into a problem.
Shed Plans Approved
We've had some good news and some bad news lately. What I consider the best news is that the shed plans were approved. Initially, the town was not willing to approve the plans for us to build a shed first, because it's "customary" to build the primary residence first and secondary structures later. But we were able to work with the local officials and get approval.
And, the actual plans themselves were approved. I think what I sent them was overkill in terms of details. But by producing a document with a ton of detail, it will make developing our materials list a breeze.
Also with the approval of the plans, we were assigned an address. Our neighbors to one side are #328, and the neighbors to the other side are #370. There are three lots between those two houses, so we knew our number would be somewhere in the middle of those. We requested two numbers: 360 and 342. We wanted 360 because then we could say, so matter where we go, we can just do a "360" and be back in the same place (goofy - I know). And I wanted 342 because those were the last 3 digits of my grandmother's phone number. Well, the building department gave us #350. I'm not quite sure why I couldn't have one of the numbers I wanted, but that's not a battle worth engaging in.
More about the bad news a little later...
And, the actual plans themselves were approved. I think what I sent them was overkill in terms of details. But by producing a document with a ton of detail, it will make developing our materials list a breeze.
Also with the approval of the plans, we were assigned an address. Our neighbors to one side are #328, and the neighbors to the other side are #370. There are three lots between those two houses, so we knew our number would be somewhere in the middle of those. We requested two numbers: 360 and 342. We wanted 360 because then we could say, so matter where we go, we can just do a "360" and be back in the same place (goofy - I know). And I wanted 342 because those were the last 3 digits of my grandmother's phone number. Well, the building department gave us #350. I'm not quite sure why I couldn't have one of the numbers I wanted, but that's not a battle worth engaging in.
More about the bad news a little later...
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Shed Plans are Complete
During the cold, nasty winter New England weather, we've been working on our shed plans. We've decided that the main project for 2011 will be to build the shed. There will be other things to do of course, but that will be the main goal.
We are planning to build a "monitor style" barn with one wing. I found a great set of plan in a book about building your own barns. Our goal is to have three areas: parking for a rider lawn mower and tractor, a workshop area, and a storage area. The plans we chose fit that bill perfectly.
We are planning to do all aspects of building the shed ourselves. So over the winter, we are getting our plans on paper. These are plans that we will submit with our building permit. It has also forced us to investigate what building materials we will use and the steps involved. It is also helping us develop our budget.
We know the first things we'll have to do is clear the building site and dig the foundation hole. But to do that, we have to buy a machine (tractor). Justin has been doing research on what machine will best suit all our needs. I think he's narrowed it down quite a bit, and has been looking online for one. So once we buy that and spring comes, we can get started.
I'm excited to be doing this ourselves. I've taken on the responsibility of developing the blueprints and creating a materials list. I have never done any framing (except building a dog house - which came out great by the way), and after all the research I've done, I think I can do this.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
It's Getting Too Cold To Work Outside
I think this weekend will be the last that we spend up at the land working outside this year. It's now mid-December in New England and it's getting pretty cold. We've had some single digit temps in the evenings and a few days this past week never made it out of the teens.
We're really happy with the work we have accomplished this Fall. We've cut down a number of trees at the house site. It's a much safer working environment now. We have also come close to a final decision on where precisely the house will be located.
There are many things we can do over the winter, such as talk to the appropriate people about the septic design, finalize house plans, start identifying sources for building materials, and find a machine that will suit our needs.
We're really happy with the work we have accomplished this Fall. We've cut down a number of trees at the house site. It's a much safer working environment now. We have also come close to a final decision on where precisely the house will be located.
There are many things we can do over the winter, such as talk to the appropriate people about the septic design, finalize house plans, start identifying sources for building materials, and find a machine that will suit our needs.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Tool humor
My father in-law sent me this email joke today about tools. I thought it was pretty funny. Let's hope we learn the proper way to use tools for our upcoming projects.
Tools Explained
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!'
SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON-OF-A-BITCH TOOL: (A personal favorite!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a BITCH!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
Tools Explained
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!'
SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON-OF-A-BITCH TOOL: (A personal favorite!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a BITCH!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
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